OLA GORIE Vintage Sterling Sliver Zoomorphic Brooch dated 1988 
Sep
Vintage Jewellery
Vintage Brooches UK: 20 modern ways to wear them
We never stopped wearing brooches….
In our Stockport shop our team pin brooches on blazers, knits, scarves and bag straps to show how simple they are to wear now. The left lapel is a classic, but we often place a piece off centre, at the shoulder or near a pocket for a cleaner, contemporary line. See what is new in Vintage Brooches.
Brooches are not just for women. More men are wearing them on suit lapels, knit polos and denim jackets, choosing slim bars, crests and small enamel motifs that read sharp rather than fussy.
The fashion world has rediscovered what we have always known: a brooch gives your outfit a focal point and a bit of story. Vintage brooches have real character, from rollover catches that feel secure to hand engraving and tiny hallmarks you can read. Bring out the pieces you already own and try a few new spots. Below you will find ideas that work with everyday clothes and feel personal rather than precious.
Start with one hero
Choose one brooch to lead the look and let everything else support it. Think about scale first. On a slim lapel, a small piece feels neat; on a structured blazer, a medium 3 to 4 cm brooch reads clearly; on a coat, a larger 5 to 6 cm piece holds its own. Look for contrast so the eye goes straight to it: gold on navy, silver on black, enamel against denim, pearls on tweed. Balance texture too. If your blazer is crisp and tailored, a brooch with engraving or marcasite adds interest. If your knit is soft and simple, a geometric or enamel shape brings clean structure.
Placement that looks considered
Lapel, slightly off centre
The classic for blazers and coats. Follow the line of the lapel and sit the brooch just above the bust point so the eye travels cleanly. Angle it a touch to echo the lapel. On structured jackets, medium pieces (around 3–4 cm) read clearly. For extra impact, try a small cluster of two or three pins spaced a finger width apart.
Try it: A cool toned brooch reads clean on dark wool. Our Vintage Sterling Silver Smokey Quartz Brooch (1962) brings light to a navy or black blazer without shouting.
Shoulder of a knit
Elegant and fabric friendly. Pin where the shoulder seam gives structure so the weight does not pull the stitches. Lighter pieces with wider backplates or marcasite sprays work well here. On fine cashmere, add a tiny felt circle behind the fabric for support or choose a stick pin so the knit is not stressed.
Try it: Pin a warm rose gold opal at the shoulder so it catches the light. The 9ct Rose Gold Opal Brooch (pre-1932) sits beautifully on cream or soft grey knits.
At the waist
Pin to a belt, the waistband of a skirt or to close a cardigan for a couture feel. This works best with secure fittings like a rollover or trombone clasp. Keep the brooch slightly off centre to avoid looking too formal. On softer cardigans, back the pin with a ribbon tab on the inside for stability.
Try it: Use a secure catch and place slightly off centre on a belt. Our Vintage 9ct Gold Horse Brooch adds polish and personality to tailoring and midi skirts.
On a scarf
Secure a drape at the shoulder for movement and shape. With a square silk, fold on the diagonal and pin through the layers near the shoulder point so the weight is supported. With a wool wrap or pashmina, place the brooch where the fabric overlaps to anchor the fold. Avoid very heavy pieces on delicate silks and aim for the densest part of the weave or near the rolled hem.
On a hat or beret
A small piece adds charm without trying too hard. Place it just above the eyebrow line on the side you naturally part your hair, or clip it to the hat band so the pin and catch are hidden. Keep scale small to medium so the silhouette stays clean, and check the inside for a ribbon band to pin through rather than the felt.
On a bag strap
A neat, modern accent. Position the brooch on the outer side of the strap in the top third so it is visible but not rubbing against your coat. Choose smooth profiles that will not snag knitwear. Remove the brooch when storing the bag to avoid an imprint and check that the catch does not mark leather.
Twenty styling ideas to try
- Navy blazer, white tee, Vintage 9ct Gold Cameo Brooch on the lapel.
- Chunky cable knit with a marcasite spray at the shoulder.
- Black coat, pearl cluster brooch near the collarbone.
- Silk scarf secured with a small cameo.
- Denim jacket with a floral silver brooch over the pocket.
- Monochrome dress with a single geometric Art Deco piece.
- Leather jacket with a slim bar brooch near the zip line.
- Ribbed roll neck with a narrow vertical stick pin.
- Shirt and tie with a slim bar brooch as a tie pin near the knot, or on a collar point
- Trench coat storm flap with a shell or leaf design.
- Beret with a small gold knot brooch.
- Menswear waistcoat with a signet style pin.
- Cardigan placket closed with a safety catch brooch.
- Cashmere wrap with a long stick pin.
- Coloured tailoring with a quirky pin
- Checked coat with a smooth oval to balance the pattern.
- Double breasted blazer, top button line with a slim bar.
- Wide belt near the buckle with a small floral.
- Ivory blouse collar point with a petite star.
- Wool hat band with a tiny seed pearl crescent.
Brooch fittings explained
Modern styling begins with a secure fitting. Look for a tight pin and a positive click on the catch.
- Rollover safety catch: very secure for daily wear.
- Trombone clasp: a little tube slides to lock the pin.
- C clasp: older style, holds well on thicker fabrics if the pin has tension.
Fabric friendly pinning
Support the fabric with your hand as you pin. On knits, choose the shoulder or rib rather than the most open stitches. On silk, test a seam or reinforced area. A well set brooch will sit flat and feel balanced.
Era and material cues
Art Deco (1920s to 1930s). Think clear geometry and strong symmetry. Step-cut stones, calibre-set gems, fan and sunburst motifs, chevrons and crisp black-and-white contrasts. White metals dominate with polished surfaces and fine millegrain edges. These pieces look modern on sharp tailoring or a clean blouse.
Retro (1940s to 1950s). Sculpted gold with volume and movement. Ribbons, bows, scrolls and bombé forms, often with rubies, citrines or aquamarines for colour. You will see both yellow and rose gold, sometimes two-tone. Retro brooches sit beautifully on coats and structured knits because the forms read from a distance.
Mid century (1960s to 1970s). Organic curves, textured metal and playful shapes. Think bark finishes, florals, leaves and abstract sprays with pearls, turquoise or hardstones. Silver and mixed metals appear more often. These pieces love denim, wool and relaxed jackets where texture meets texture.
Across eras you will find gold and silver, enamel panels, seed pearls, marcasite and old-cut diamonds. For hallmarks and maker’s marks, check the reverse plate, the frame near the catch, the hinge or along the pin. Older pieces may carry a C clasp or trombone clasp, later examples often use a rollover safety catch. A quick loupe check here tells you a lot about period, metal and workshop.
Care and storage
Wipe with a soft cloth after wear. Keep brooches in separate pouches so pins do not mark other pieces. Avoid sprays and lotions near stones and enamel.
Shop vintage brooches
We curate vintage brooches that pin cleanly and sit well. Browse the latest pieces below.
Need advice on scale or placement? Our Stockport team is happy to help you choose a brooch that fits your wardrobe and your fabrics. Explore our Vintage Jewellery selection or go straight to Vintage Brooches to find a piece you can wear right away.
